Saturday, December 15, 2007

sun enough to melt the ice

Surfing. The word conjures up glorious rides on long, gently breaking waves sparkling and curling over the head of any surfer gutsy enough to hang out in the tube. They carve languid lines along the wave and tear up the curl with the greatest of ease. When they are done they make their triumphant exit from the water, beautiful beach babes scented with coconut and ylang-ylang greet them with back rubs and pina coladas. the reality of this kansas boy varies a bit from this version. My surfing (although improving each time) consists of burning up the shoulder muscles attempting to get through the primary breakers near the beach. Simply getting to the calm of the swell just beyond the break for a chance to relax and feel the ocean roll beneath me (not to mention the pelicans gliding by) feels like a victory. From here, it's a matter of seeing a wave I might have a chance with. Then paddling like mad. If the timing is good, the wave picks up the board up and for that moment I'm moving as quickly as a bootlegger and as lightly as the air around me. Next, stand up quick and for the next few moments yours truly feels like the golden god of surfing. This feeling is soon followed by a fall from heaven into the massive water that is crashing over my head and salt water cleaning out the sinuses and an underwater disorientation that can only be solved by following the leash up to the (thankfully) bouyant surfboard while another wave crashes on my nearly drowned cabeza. Although there is no gaggle of senoritas waiting ashore, there is one senora bonita who squeezes my hand and tells me how proud she is proud of my attempts-no matter how feeble. Tuanis, mai!
Laying on the beach or floating in the pool overlooking the ocean with the sun on her skin and a book in her hand is Kendra's speed. The surfing is to be tolerated not attempted. We are soaking up these last few days of sunshine before we depart for the cold Midwest. Just wanted to prove it, so here we are, truly enjoying pura vida. Ken finished her pina colada before the picture was snapped.

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